Rex Tool 101. (Thru-The-Lock on Mortise Locks)

Finally got around to editing about 3 hours of forcible entry video we have into short training sessions. We will start off with Thru-The-Lock tactics on mortise locks using the Rex Tool. Hope it is useful.

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6 Comments on “Rex Tool 101. (Thru-The-Lock on Mortise Locks)”

  1. Mike Bishop Says:

    I have spun the lock off quite a few doors on alarms, but I’ve never used the Rex Tool so I’m unfamilar with it. In spinning the lock out when we clear we can simply screw it back in after we’ve locked the door and leave it secure. In using the Rex Tool, does it not damage the threads when you pull the lock or do it just break the screws like it does when we spin one off?

    I liked the speed with how quickly the tool works


    • The Rex does typically damage the threads, every once in a while you can put them back in. But I agree with you, if it is an investigation or something that is slower moving, then unscrew it and put it back in afterwards. If it is a fire just pull the cylinder, it is much quicker and still does very little damage. The other reason we use the rex a lot would be for the cylinder guards and shrouds that prevent you from unscrewing the lock. We find these on a regular basis. Someone that is good on these Rex tools will find that it is the absolute quickest way in these doors.

  2. Bryan Says:

    Gret video with awesome info. Quick question, what is the name of that belt the guy is wearing in the video and where can I get it? I have seen them and would like to get one.

  3. John Says:

    Literally just had a run where we did this not five minutes ago. The lock was protected by a freely spinning shroud/cylinder guard. These are very easily pulled off with channel locks after pinching them. However, the problem I ran into was a freely spinning lock cylinder that never seemed to “unthread” itself, has anybody encountered this problem? We inevitably switched to the officer’s tool and pulled the cylinder that way. I am still uncertain why that cylinder wouldn’t just spin out, any insight would be much appreciated.


    • John did you take any pictures afterwards? It is hard to say without actually seeing it. I understand you pulled the cylinder guard which would have been my first guess, how about the cheap sleeve that covers the face of the lock. Every once and a while those will spin freely but the actual lock will not move? Was the actual keyway turning with each turn of your tool? How many times did you spin it?

      • John Says:

        No pictures, sorry. The face of the lock was not a cheap sleeve. And yes, the keyway was spinning with each turn of the tool. I used the modified channel locks, (which I believe I built to the specifications/instructions from this website) I began spinning the lock a 1/4 turn clockwise, then spinned it ~10 times to the left. Spinning the lock came with no visible changes in the lock “spinning/unthreading” out. Pretty weird if you ask me…

        Also, eventhough I do not think it has anything to do with this case, but the mechanism on the interior side of the door was also another keyway. Meaning, it takes a key to get in from the outside, as well as a key to get out from inside the building. (And, after pulling the lock on the outside it was obvious that the two mechanisms were not one single, interconnected piece.)


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